Triangles will spin at almost any speed you want to use them at, the only “rule” is go fast enough to make your bait/spinner start to work and you are fishing!

Personally I like 24” bumpers but again it is personal preference.  The length of bumper will determine how wide of a roll your flasher will turn, the shorter the bumper the smaller the roll, the longer will give a little wider roll up to a certain point, water resistance will stop the size of the roll at some point.  We do recommend using one of our premade bumpers called “Stiffies” they come in 18”, 24” and 30” lengths.  They give you a high quality connection from the flasher to your mainline.

Preferred angle on your lines is close to 45 degree angle to the water when your moving at your preferred speed, the higher the current, the more lead and vice versa in slack water situations.

Triangles – We prefer a slower action rod where the power is more to the butt of the rod, it allows the fish to chew the bait without feeling resistance.  Rod Examples 1063 or 1064.

360 Super Series Flashers – We prefer a heavy rod with a faster action, with the power moved closer to the tip it allows for more of a “pop” to the flasher giving it more action where a slower action rod seems to be a little more sloppy type roll.  As odd as it sounds, some days just the length of the rod will be enough of a difference in the roll to trigger bites.  Rod examples – 955, 1065 or 1066.

Dropper should be at least 2” shorter than the bumper length you are using.  Reasoning is if the lead bounces the bottom and swings back up it will not get tangled in the rotating flasher.

Depending on the conditions you are fishing, if you are fishing suspended then no dropper is required, you can clip it directly to your Slide-n-Lock spreader. If you are bouncing bottom then if desired you can run a dropper line but remember it will need to be extra-long in order to touch bottom before the 360 flasher but you do run the risk of tangling your dropper line if it swings back far enough. Generally I do not run a dropper with the Super Series flashers, if it taps bottom just give it a crank or two to move away from the bottom.

360 Super Series Flashers don’t let a swivel work as effectively as an inline flasher which causes micro twists in braided line as the day goes on. These micro twists in the line will eventually weaken the line causing early breakdown. The Slide-n-Lock literally locks the top eye of the swivel in place which stops all line twist from that point up. Another feature of the Slide-n-Lock is that if the lead gets hung up in a net they still allow the line to travel through it and not break off a fish.

First choice should be a dark colored blade, something black like the Hallucinator. The dark colors give a larger profile than a lighter colored blade thus upping your chances of getting noticed in the water. If the water has good visibility but cloudy day, then copper or gold paired colors are a good choice.

If the water clarity is good a lighter color flasher is a good option, ones like the Chartreuse Hunter or chartreuse/red would be our go to colors.

Triangles – Chartreuse Hunter, Sweet Abby, Electric Pole Dancer, Hallucinator and mirror chrome would be my personal starter set if I were to be just starting out.  The colors listed will cover a vast majority of the water conditions and have been proven winners since we have released them.

360 Super Series Flashers – Chartreuse Hunter, Mirror Chrome, Sweet Abby, Silver Bullet and Dusky or Hallucinator.  Again, this a good starting base but it will also cover quite a wide variety of water conditions.

Personally we do not use them while we are fishing but do realize they are popular in some locations. If you are fishing suspended you don’t have to worry about inadvertently tripping the release. If you are fishing close to the bottom each time you bump, you are almost forced to reel up and check if the release has been tripped thus lowering your true fishing time. We have found if you keep the boat in gear until the person fighting the fish has control and a nice deep bend in the rod we rarely lose a fish.

These flashers are super finicky and will not rotate if the bait or lure is causing too much drag. Spinner blades up to #4, Super Baits or real bait with a tight spin should all work.  If your flasher still won’t roll over, try downsizing your offering. Bait helmets work great if you struggle to get a nice tight spin on your bait.

Triangles – typical length is 4-6’ long but 5’ is a good starting point.  Lower clarity water, the closer you want to be and clearer move away from the flasher.  Please note, if you get too far away and have to fight a fish, you will have less control fighting the fish to the net.

360 Super Series Flashers – This is a day to day or sometimes changes during the day answer.  18” – 48” are pretty common.  We like to start around the 30” mark to start then vary till we find the answer.  The closer you are to the flasher the more action you will put on the lure/bait and less action the further away you get from the flasher.

Although we dread the thought of you using other brands, yes you sure can if you choose to. They seem to have “sweet spots” on speed so you will need to find a happy medium for them to all work effectively as each has its own speed to roll over effectively.

The #1 reason you get flashers tangled outside of crossing lines is deploying them too quickly. We suggest using the clicker to add some extra drag going out or stripping line a pull at a time. If you just freespool the line, the flasher does not have enough time to drop back and mainlines get caught going parallel on the way down. Another reason is using a dropper longer than the bumper getting the line into the spinning blade.

Bling Wings are a super versatile lure, they work great in front of a glob of eggs and back bounced into a salmon or steelheads face. You can pin them in front of a herring or anchovies. Another use is ganging them together as a Kokanee attractor. The options are almost limitless!